Sneak peek into the workshop: bezel setting part 1

A bezel setting is a collar of metal that surrounds the outer edge of a gemstone. It is considered to be the most secure way of setting a stone. The reason for this is that each bezel setting is made taller than it needs to be, so that there is plenty of metal to push down over the entire edge of the stone.

Additionally, it’s the most effective way of protecting the edge of the stone against damage during every day wear. Visually, the bezel acts as a frame for the stone, in the same way as a frame on a piece of art, and a bezel makes a gemstone look larger. It also enhances the amazing variety of shapes that gemstones are cut in like the ring below.

We make many bezel settings at PIKE and have often been asked if we simply buy different sized metal tubes to fit the stones into. In fact, each bezel is hand made to fit each stone, and this sneak peek into the PIKE workshop will show just exactly how we make bezels and why they are so time consuming.  Click here to watch Matthew hand make a bezel for a large oval sapphire.

As you can see, there is a lot of skill and experience required to begin a hand made bezel setting including knowing how much metal is required and how much tension to use on the metal.

The next video shows the next step – this time a round bezel being shaped carefully to fit the stone to be set. Click here to watch.

And the next step – carefully soldering the bezel together using the breath-powered torch – watch here.

As you can see in the videos, Matthew makes bezels for oval and round stones. Bezels can also made to fit any shape or size of stone, like this beautiful marquis cut morganite. The manufacturing process does vary for these specific shapes, however it always starts the same way as the videos explain. We’ll explain more about the shaping of the unusual bezel settings in part 2 next month.

There are some designs that call for a slightly lighter look than a full bezel, where customers still want the security of a bezel. This is where we use a partial bezel (seen on the two rings here). A full bezel is always made, and then sections are carefully removed to give a different look that often lets light through the stone, especially in the case of coloured stones.

While bezel settings are extremely secure, the metal of a bezel can wear out over time in the same way as any other type of jewellery. If you have a bezel set ring that was worn by a precious family member for a long time that you now wear, it’s worth having it checked to make sure that your stone is still secure. We are always happy to help at the studio if you have any questions, so feel free to call us on 08 8338 3109 or pop into the studio.